After changing my OEM skid plates about once a year due to permanent damage, I wished to determine how to make this an irreversible repair.
Aluminum skid plates were the response. These have sound moistening product on the within to reduce roadway sound, while completely securing your drive train. It's a win-win. Due to the fact that of these, I never ever have to fret about bottoming or striking a puddle out triggering extreme damage to my undercarriage.
Tesla's OEM skid plates are constructed of fiber board-- which is essentially a cardboard composite product. It's quickly vulnerable to water damage, deforming and swelling if in direct contact with the components, and tears or rips due to driving or striking low curbs over rough locations. There's one in the front and one in the back covering the drive systems.
WHAT YOU NEED
Aluminum Skid Plate Set
Jack or lift: I use QuickJack
Jack Pads
10mm ratchet
15mm ratchet
Light (optional) – I recommend a head light to keep your hands free!
T40 Hex bit
HOW TO ELIMINATE OEM PLATES
- Boost your cars and truck. I have a QuickJack lift, however you can utilize any type of jack. Make certain to put jack pads in the jack indicate keep the jack from harming the battery and slipping pack or side skirt.
- For the rear plate, utilize a 10mm cog to secure about 12 bolts. The plate will merely come off.
- For the front, likewise utilize a 10mm cog to get the bolts also, however you'll require a 15mm cog for 2 of them. They are near the battery pack.
HOW TO SET UP BRAND-NEW PLATES
Raise it into location and begin hand tightening up the initial screws up until it holds.
Ratchet them all into location.
The two 15mm bolts in the front plate can NOT be changed with the method the aluminum one is developed. Rather utilize the 2 hex screws and washers the set features. You'll require a T40 hex bit for these.
